[This post was written a few days ago but took till now to post]Varanasi is an amazing place. It has all the hustle and congestion of Delhi but much more flavor and character. As one would expect from one of the oldest living cities in the world and the most sacred city in all of India. We spent our first three nights in a nice western style hotel since it was part of our tour package but last night we were on our own.

We found a nice guest house in the old part of the city right along side the Mother Ganga [the Ganges for 100 Rs per night! The streets in the old city are only about 3 meters wide at most, so cars don't fit but that doesn't stop the motor bikes and scooters from buzzing along beside you. The streets wrap and wind in every direction with no apparent order, constantly forking out into two or more roads and converging back to one. From the roof top of any restaurant our hotel you can see the whole city, and down into the homes and courtyards of neighboring families. It is almost like a scene from Aladdin, and you could travel the city easily jumping from roof top to roof top. At night you can see large packs of monkeys doing this in a unfufiling search for food.
A young man just walked into the internet cafe burning some frankincense, he stood by the door and wafted it towards me with a feather and then walked out without a word being said.
Our first night in Kashi [as Varanasi is called by the devout, meaning the city that radiates light] we walked down the the famous ghats. Which are long staircases that start at street level and the descent down to the river. During monsoon the water rises up to nearly street level and submerges most of the ghats, and during the late winter when the river is at its lowest, the stairs go down about 3 or 4 stories until they touch the sacred river's banks. The ghats are where people gather to do laundry, take a sacred bath [believed to absolve all sin and bad karma, which it think is incredibly ignorant], launch boats, have picnics, and at designated ghats; burn the dead.
We asked our Tuk Tuk driver, Raj, if we could go and watch the funeral ceremonies and were surprised with how open to the public and tourists t

hese cremations are. We sat down on a bench right beside one family who were witnessing a loved one's cremation. Everyone is dressed in all white as is tradition here. There was 4 bodies burning on top of the pyres, about 30 feet from us, and one was being set up about 20 feet infront of us. Young boys of the lowest caste [untouchables] stacked logs about 4 feet high and then the family got off the bench beside us and covered the body in glittery gold silk and placed it on top. A man came down with some smoldering dry grass, lit off the eternal flame in a nearby temple, and with this he started the pyre on fire from the bottom. He then lit all the clothing on fire and the silk around the head burst into flames. We watched for about 2 hours as the massive pyres with 5 foot flames slow shrank into piles of ash, and the bodies blended in with charred wood. It felt amazing to be dripping with sweat from the heat of a funeral pyre. Every once in a while a man would push the body around with a long bamboo shaft. They bashed the skull really hard about 4 or 5 times to crack it open or else it won't burn. At the end they collect the little pieces of bone that don't burn, and toss them into the Ganga. Raj explained that on

a man's body the central rib cage infront of the heart is the part that wont break down, and on a woman it is their hips. I found this very poetic.
Homesickness is starting to set in, but in a subtle and comfortable way. Example; when I look at a clock I think about what time it is in Calgary, and what my Mom, Brother, and Father might be up to. When basking in the beauty of trees foreign to my eyes, or observing the subtle flora such as the grass or the flowers, my mind always takes me to the tall yellow grass prairies with
pink and
yellow flowers in fish creek, or the massive pine trees that grow everywhere, or to my favorite... the apple tree in my front yard. The two people that I miss most actually are my Brother, and Hector, whom I hadn't seen for months before I left Calgary. Im very excited to breathe the cold dry air and see the glowing
whiteness of everything in late December.
Three days ago we went to the ancient place of Sarnath. The Place where the historical Buddha, after finding himself, went to teach his first lesson,
the four noble truths, to a crowd five peers, the first Buddhists. The monasteries have been in ruins for thousand years, and the only thing that stands is a massive Stupa built by a old Buddhist king.
tomorrow morning we are gonna get up early to catch the sunrise, and take a boat ride out on the massive Mother Ganga. On the 10th we are catching a bus to Nepal, it stops at a border town in India where we will stay the night, and we will arrive in Katmandu on the 12th!
Much Love to everyone.